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On the Knife Edge

Top 5 things to do in Chamonix post-TMB

19/10/2020

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The Mer de Glace seen from Signal Forbes
The Mer de Glace seen from Signal Forbes
People are constantly asking me how they should spend their spare days in Chamonix after trekking the TMB. So here is a link to an article I have written on my bucket list of epic viewpoints in the Chamonix Valley. These are the places which you simply CAN NOT miss! It should help you start your planning. 
Top 5 Chamonix Viewpoints
Our amazing new book on Chamonix-Mont Blanc
Our amazing new book on Chamonix-Mont Blanc
Our bestselling book on the Tour du Mont Blanc
Our bestselling book on the Tour du Mont Blanc

Walking Chamonix Mont Blanc

£14.99
Available Now!


​The 20 hikes in the Chamonix Valley that need to be on your Bucket List. No fillers. Only must-do hikes are included.

â–º Real IGN Maps inside: 1:25,000
â–º Detailed information on public transport, including cable cars
â–º Our secret tips on how to get away from the crowds
â–º Numbered waypoints linking the Real Maps to our clear descriptions
â–º Graded routes to suit all abilities
► Everything the hiker needs to know: route descriptions, difficulty, weather, how to get there, and more
â–º Information on Wildlife and Plants

Our walks have been carefully selected to enable easy access by public transport, including the Chamonix Valley’s incredible cable car network.

Chamonix is the most famous mountain town in the world. It is where mountaineering began. 
​
Its peerless reputation owes everything to the mighty Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Western Europe: our hikes will take you to the finest viewpoints of the mountain and its glaciers.
Shop

Tour du Mont Blanc

£14.99
AVAILABLE NOW!

Complete guidebook for planning and trekking the Tour du Mont Blanc, the world's most famous trek

Real maps for each stage: 1:25,000. No need to carry a separate map!

Unique Itinerary Planner: plan a bespoke itinerary to match your ability and vacation schedule. All difficult calculations of time, distance and altitude gain are done for you

Everything the trekker needs to know: route descriptions, costs, budget, difficulty, weather, how to get there, and more

Full accommodation listings: spectacularly situated mountain huts, villages and hamlets

Full section on camping: a complete list of camping locations

10 exciting variants to the main route!

Information for both self-guided and guided trekkers
Shop

Walker's Haute Route: Chamonix to Zermatt

£14.99
AVAILABLE NOW!

Real maps for each stage: 1:25,000/1:50,000. No need to carry a separate map!

Also includes:
  • Unique Itinerary Planner: plan a bespoke itinerary to match your ability and vacation schedule. All difficult calculations of time, distance and altitude gain are done for you​
  • Everything the trekker needs to know: route descriptions, costs, budget, difficulty, weather, how to get there, and more
  • Full accommodation listings: spectacularly situated mountain huts, villages and hamlets
  • Full section on camping: a complete list of camping locations
  • ​Section on Zermatt day walks
  • 13 exciting variants to the main route
  • ​Information for both self-guided and guided trekkers
​
Shop

Trekking the Dolomites AV1

£14.99

Available Now!


The only guidebook exclusively for the AV1.


Real maps inside (Tabacco 1:25,000): the finest maps available for the Dolomites.

​

Everything you need to know to plan and walk Italy's most popular long distance route.


Also includes:


Numbered waypoints linking maps to text


Unique Itinerary Planner: plan a bespoke itinerary to match your ability and vacation schedule. All difficult calculations of time, distance and altitude gain are done for you


7 Proposed Itineraries of between 6 and 11 days


Everything the trekker needs to know to plan the route: route descriptions, costs, budget, difficulty, weather, how to get there, and more    


Full accommodation listings: spectacularly situated mountain huts


Section on Camping


Exciting variants to the main route


Information for both self-guided and guided trekkers

​

Edge to edge colour: the most modern and beautiful guidebooks

Shop

Tour of the Ecrins National Park

£13.99
AVAILABLE NOW!

Real maps for each stage: 1:25,000. No need to carry a separate map!

Complete guidebook for planning and trekking the Tour of the Ecrins National Park. The GR54 is arguably the finest trek in the Alps.

Unique Itinerary Planner: plan a bespoke itinerary to match your ability and vacation schedule. All difficult calculations of time, distance and altitude gain are done for you

Everything the trekker needs to know: route descriptions, costs, budget, difficulty, weather, how to get there, equipment and more

Full accommodation listings: spectacularly situated mountain huts, villages and hamlets

Full information on camping
​

Exciting variants to the main route!
Shop

Walking Brittany

£14.99
Available Now!

32 epic coastal walks Brittany in France

Real IGN Maps inside: 1:25,000.

No ‘fillers’! Only unmissable walks made the cut.

Wild coastline: towering cliffs, remote headlands, forgotten islands and stunning beaches which would not be out of place on a Caribbean island.
Shop
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Should I book the AV1 for 2021?

16/9/2020

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The AV1 starts at the magnificent Lago di Braies
The AV1 starts at the magnificent Lago di Braies
It is no exaggeration to state that the Dolomites AV1 is one of the world’s most beautiful treks. And it is therefore no surprise to learn that it is also very busy.  In a normal year, in July and August, almost every bed in every refuge, gîte and hotel will eventually be booked up and not just by AV1 trekkers: weekenders and day walkers also want to experience this magnificent terrain.

Of course, Covid changed the world and 2020 was a very different year. Travelling to the Dolomites was a challenge for those who did not reside in Continental Europe and few English-speaking trekkers have walked this year. Even the number of UK trekkers willing or able to cross the English Channel was very small. Those that did find a way to get to the Dolomites had an overwhelmingly positive experience: walker numbers were far fewer than at any other time in recent years and you could sometimes book accommodation at the last minute. Often people had to move heaven and earth to get there but they were richly rewarded, enjoying an exceptional Alpine ‘honeypot’ without the crowds.
​
Italy had its serious Covid outbreak before other western countries and as a result, it was one of the first to recover. Whilst Covid is still present, it appears that the situation is being kept under control. Those that did trek in 2020 have mostly reported that they felt very safe. The rifugi, by all accounts, handled Covid very well and the sanitary and distancing measures that they put in place seemed to please most.
At this stage, it is impossible to have a clear sense of what the environment will be like in 2021. Nobody knows what travel restrictions will be in place next year. Governments are under pressure from the tourist industry to find a way to allow travel to happen safely: airlines and travel companies are in danger of going out of business. On the other hand, the threat caused by Covid has not disappeared: perhaps we will find a way to live with it better but who knows?

I suspect that, as society becomes more adept at containing outbreaks, travel will open up again albeit slowly. If there were trekkers on the AV1 in 2020, the worst of all years, then there will be trekkers on the AV1 in 2021.

But what the hell do I know?! Well, while I cannot profess to be an expert on contagious disease or economics, I do know that the current environment is deterring most people from making travel plans, especially in places like the US where Covid has continued to spread over the summer. Most people will wait for flights actually to open up before starting to plan a trip. There is of course common sense to this: what is the point of planning a trip if there is no way of getting there?
The climb from Rifugio Pramperet is one of the finest sections of the Dolomites AV1
The climb from Rifugio Pramperet is one of the finest sections of the Dolomites AV1
However, I think that those desperate to walk the AV1 should not put plans completely on hold. The Dolomites trekking season is very short (approximately 10-12 weeks depending on the year). With a popular trek like the AV1, it can be difficult to get the stars to align to get on the trek within this short period. And these days, it is very difficult to plan the AV1 at the last minute if you are not camping.

We do not get much notice when governments change rules or when airlines start up flights again. If you have not done some planning and preparation before that happens then you will probably miss out. Those who have already done their homework will be able to move faster.
​
Furthermore, because so many people missed out in 2020, there is going to be massive pent-up demand for the AV1 in the next few years. And the rifugi will probably continue to run at reduced capacity in the next few seasons. Accordingly, AV1 accommodation for the foreseeable future is going to be like gold dust.
An AV1 marker on the route to Rifugio Pramperet
An AV1 marker on the route to Rifugio Pramperet
So, this is what I think you should do:

Plan your itinerary now: buy the guidebooks and maps; work out how many days you want to spend on the trek; design an itinerary that matches your capabilities and vacation schedule; and make a list of the places you want to stay. Take your time. Get yourself into a position to be able to start booking accommodation the moment that you feel it is right to do so.

Forget about flights for now: those can be booked later on, if and when, they become available. If they do not become available, then you have not wasted any time: your itinerary planning work will still be good for the following season.

Consider booking AV1 accommodation: there are ways of booking accommodation so that it can be cancelled later or moved to future dates. Most of those who booked for 2020, but could not travel, obtained refunds or were permitted to shift their dates to subsequent seasons. If done right, you should not lose any money if you have to cancel or postpone. If booking accommodation independently, choose rifugi/hotels that allow cancellation or amendment. Or book with a self-guided/guided tour company that allows you to cancel or change your dates.

In any case, most accommodation requires only small deposits of €15-20 so the risk is not huge. If you start booking in October 2020, then you should get the choice accommodation: private rooms, etc. If you wait until flights open up next year than you may get nothing.

If travel is impossible next year then you should have lost nothing more than a little time. On the other hand, if you do not put the work in now then it seems likely that you will miss out with the accommodation operating at such reduced capacity.

Please feel free to ask me any questions!
The Front Cover of our amazing new book on the Dolomites AV1
The Front Cover of our amazing new book on the Dolomites AV1
Real Tabacco Maps are included in our guidebook (1-25,000)
Real Tabacco Maps are included in our guidebook (1-25,000)
0 Comments

Should I book the Tour du Mont Blanc for 2021?

12/9/2020

0 Comments

 
Finish the TMB on this incredible balcony below le Brevent
Finish the TMB on this incredible balcony below le Brevent
It is no exaggeration to state that the Tour du Mont Blanc is exquisite. And it is therefore no surprise to learn that it is also very busy.  In a normal year, in July and August, almost every bed in every refuge, gîte and hotel will eventually be booked up and not just by TMB trekkers: weekenders and day walkers also want to experience this magnificent terrain.

Of course, Covid changed the world and 2020 was a very different year. Travelling to the Alps was a challenge for those who did not reside in Continental Europe and few English-speaking trekkers have walked this year. Even the number of UK trekkers willing or able to cross the English Channel was very small. Those that did find a way to get to the Chamonix Valley had an overwhelmingly positive experience: walker numbers were far fewer than at any other time in the modern TMB era and you could sometimes book accommodation at the last minute. Often people had to move heaven and earth to get there but they were richly rewarded, enjoying an exceptional Alpine ‘honeypot’ without the crowds.

Those that did trek in 2020 have mostly reported that they felt very safe. The refuges, by all accounts, handled Covid very well and the sanitary and distancing measures that they put in place seemed to please most.
At this stage, it is impossible to have a clear sense of what the environment will be like in 2021. Nobody knows what travel restrictions will be in place next year. Governments are under pressure from the tourist industry to find a way to allow travel to happen safely: airlines and travel companies are in danger of going out of business. On the other hand, the threat caused by Covid has not disappeared: perhaps we will find a way to live with it better but who knows?

I suspect that, as society becomes more adept at containing outbreaks, travel will open up again albeit slowly. If there were trekkers on the TMB in 2020, the worst of all years, then there will be trekkers on the TMB in 2021.
An ibex along the TMB route
An ibex along the TMB route
But what the hell do I know?! Well, while I cannot profess to be an expert on contagious disease or economics, I do know that the current environment is deterring most people from making travel plans, especially in places like the US where Covid has continued to spread over the summer. Most people will wait for flights actually to open up before starting to plan a trip. There is of course common sense to this: what is the point of planning a trip if there is no way of getting there? 

​However, I think that those desperate to walk the TMB should not put plans completely on hold. The Alpine trekking season is very short (approximately 10-12 weeks depending on the year). With a popular trek like the TMB, it can be difficult to get the stars to align to get on the trek within this short period. And these days, it is almost impossible to plan the TMB at the last minute if you are not camping.

We do not get much notice when governments change rules or when airlines start up flights again. If you have not done some planning and preparation before that happens then you will miss out.

Furthermore, because so many people missed out in 2020, there is going to be massive pent-up demand for the TMB in the next few years. And the refuges will probably continue to run at reduced capacity in the next few seasons. Accordingly, TMB accommodation for the foreseeable future is going to be like gold dust.
Col de la Croix du Bonhomme on the TMB
Col de la Croix du Bonhomme on the TMB
So, this is what I think you should do:
  1. Plan your itinerary now: buy the guidebooks and maps; work out how many days you want to spend on the trek; design an itinerary that matches your capabilities and vacation schedule; and make a list of the places you want to stay. Take your time. Get yourself into a position to be able to start booking accommodation the moment that you feel it is right to do so.
  2. Forget about flights for now. Those can be booked later on, if and when, they become available. If they do not become available, then you have not wasted any time: your itinerary planning work will still be good for the following season.
  3. Consider booking TMB accommodation. There are ways of booking accommodation so that it can be cancelled later or moved to future dates. Most of those who booked for 2020, but could not travel, obtained refunds or were permitted to shift their dates to subsequent seasons. If done right, you should not lose any money if you have to cancel or postpone. If booking accommodation independently, choose refuges/hotels that allow cancellation or amendment. Or book with a self-guided/guided tour company that allows you to cancel or change your dates. In any case, most accommodation requires only small deposits of €15-20 so the risk is not huge. If you start booking in October 2020, then you should get the choice accommodation: private rooms, etc. If you wait until flights open up next year than you may get nothing.

If travel is impossible next year then you should have lost nothing more than a little time. On the other hand, if you do not put the work in now then it seems likely that you will miss out with the accommodation operating at such reduced capacity.

Please feel free to ask me any questions!
The definitive guidebook to the Tour du Mont BlancThe definitive guidebook to the Tour du Mont Blanc
The definitive guidebook to the Tour du Mont Blanc
Our TMB guidebook contains all the real IGN maps (1:25,000)
Our TMB guidebook contains all the real IGN maps (1:25,000)

Walking Chamonix Mont Blanc

£14.99
Available Now!


​The 20 hikes in the Chamonix Valley that need to be on your Bucket List. No fillers. Only must-do hikes are included.

â–º Real IGN Maps inside: 1:25,000
â–º Detailed information on public transport, including cable cars
â–º Our secret tips on how to get away from the crowds
â–º Numbered waypoints linking the Real Maps to our clear descriptions
â–º Graded routes to suit all abilities
► Everything the hiker needs to know: route descriptions, difficulty, weather, how to get there, and more
â–º Information on Wildlife and Plants

Our walks have been carefully selected to enable easy access by public transport, including the Chamonix Valley’s incredible cable car network.

Chamonix is the most famous mountain town in the world. It is where mountaineering began. 
​
Its peerless reputation owes everything to the mighty Mont Blanc, the highest peak in Western Europe: our hikes will take you to the finest viewpoints of the mountain and its glaciers.
Shop

Walker's Haute Route: Chamonix to Zermatt

£14.99
AVAILABLE NOW!

Real maps for each stage: 1:25,000/1:50,000. No need to carry a separate map!

Also includes:
  • Unique Itinerary Planner: plan a bespoke itinerary to match your ability and vacation schedule. All difficult calculations of time, distance and altitude gain are done for you​
  • Everything the trekker needs to know: route descriptions, costs, budget, difficulty, weather, how to get there, and more
  • Full accommodation listings: spectacularly situated mountain huts, villages and hamlets
  • Full section on camping: a complete list of camping locations
  • ​Section on Zermatt day walks
  • 13 exciting variants to the main route
  • ​Information for both self-guided and guided trekkers
​
Shop

Trekking the Dolomites AV1

£14.99

Available Now!


The only guidebook exclusively for the AV1.


Real maps inside (Tabacco 1:25,000): the finest maps available for the Dolomites.

​

Everything you need to know to plan and walk Italy's most popular long distance route.


Also includes:


Numbered waypoints linking maps to text


Unique Itinerary Planner: plan a bespoke itinerary to match your ability and vacation schedule. All difficult calculations of time, distance and altitude gain are done for you


7 Proposed Itineraries of between 6 and 11 days


Everything the trekker needs to know to plan the route: route descriptions, costs, budget, difficulty, weather, how to get there, and more    


Full accommodation listings: spectacularly situated mountain huts


Section on Camping


Exciting variants to the main route


Information for both self-guided and guided trekkers

​

Edge to edge colour: the most modern and beautiful guidebooks

Shop

Tour of the Ecrins National Park

£13.99
AVAILABLE NOW!

Real maps for each stage: 1:25,000. No need to carry a separate map!

Complete guidebook for planning and trekking the Tour of the Ecrins National Park. The GR54 is arguably the finest trek in the Alps.

Unique Itinerary Planner: plan a bespoke itinerary to match your ability and vacation schedule. All difficult calculations of time, distance and altitude gain are done for you

Everything the trekker needs to know: route descriptions, costs, budget, difficulty, weather, how to get there, equipment and more

Full accommodation listings: spectacularly situated mountain huts, villages and hamlets

Full information on camping
​

Exciting variants to the main route!
Shop

Tour du Mont Blanc

£14.99
AVAILABLE NOW!

Complete guidebook for planning and trekking the Tour du Mont Blanc, the world's most famous trek

Real maps for each stage: 1:25,000. No need to carry a separate map!

Unique Itinerary Planner: plan a bespoke itinerary to match your ability and vacation schedule. All difficult calculations of time, distance and altitude gain are done for you

Everything the trekker needs to know: route descriptions, costs, budget, difficulty, weather, how to get there, and more

Full accommodation listings: spectacularly situated mountain huts, villages and hamlets

Full section on camping: a complete list of camping locations

10 exciting variants to the main route!

Information for both self-guided and guided trekkers
Shop
0 Comments

Gear Review: Zpacks Arc Blast 55L backpack

22/8/2020

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As an outdoor writer and photographer, I spend a lot of time on the trail. Long days with a fully-laden pack is part of my job so I am constantly looking for products which help me lighten the load, without a reduction in performance. Often one of the heaviest things a backpacker carries is the backpack itself and the differences in weights between products can be large. The very lightest packs are light because they incorporate the lightest products available and these are pared down to the bare minimum. Very light materials tend to be very thin. And very thin material is often not very durable.

The holy grail of backpacks is therefore one that is light and durable and still performs well. I have used a lot of packs over the years and have never found the very lightest packs to be very good. Sometimes the straps are too flimsy to be comfortable. Sometimes the material just does not last very long. Well the Zpacks Arc Blast 55 has changed everything for me.

Over here in Europe, I had been hearing great things about Zpacks, a US manufacturer, for a few years now. So, I was very keen to get my hands on one of the packs. I chose the Zpacks Arc Blast 55 which has a good reputation in the US as an ultralight option for multi-day treks. Normally, I travel long-distance trails with a 45-litre pack which requires very careful packing to ensure that overnight gear and food fit in. The Arc Blast 55 would give me a little more space and yet at 569g it was still much lighter than 45-50 litre packs from other manufacturers. 
Zpacks Arc Blast 55 Backpack on the South Downs Way
Zpacks Arc Blast 55 Backpack on the South Downs Way
​First Impressions
As you unwrap the new pack, it is the Dyneema outer which is immediately striking: it crinkles loudly and it is very thin. The straps and buckles are also very thin but seem to be well designed. The diameter of the carbon frame is very small too so I was keen to see how that would hold up. The overall weight of the pack is astonishing: it feels like there is barely anything there when you lift it in its empty state.
Zpacks Arc Blast 55 Dyneema Material
Zpacks Arc Blast 55 Dyneema Material
Fitting
The pack comes flat and it is up to the user to set it up. The ‘arc’ in the frame is produced by tightening up a few straps: the first time you do it, it is nerve wracking as the frame is so thin. However, you soon get confidence that it is strong enough. Fitting the pack to your back is quite complicated but there is a good video on Zpacks’ website which clearly shows you how to do it. Once fitted properly, the pack feels snug, secure and comfortable. There are few manufacturers which give such good guidance on fitting.
I am 183cm tall and I chose the medium size: apparently almost nobody goes for the large. It fitted me well but only just. I think that anybody slightly taller than me might find the medium to be too small.
 
Testing
To test the pack, I walked England’s South Downs Way, 160km of beautiful flint and chalk trails through the South Downs National Park. I took full camping gear and had a base weight (excluding food and water) of 6kg. With food and water, I was topping out at 9-10kg each day.

Comfort: Over 7 days I found the pack to be extremely comfortable. Although the padding on the straps and belt is thin, it is good quality and I had no problems with it. I suspect that it might be less effective for heavier loads but most people who buy this pack will be ultralight backpackers who have a small base weight so this should not be an issue.

Durability: it is fair to say that the material is very tough. Rubbing on rocks and trees seem to cause it little problems. However, after 160km I did notice some very minor wear around the bottom corners of the pack. Presumably this was caused when setting the pack down and it should be minimised by giving the pack a little more care in future.

Water-proofing: the material is very waterproof, much more so than any other pack that I have ever used. There are a few places where a small amount of water does get in but this is a minor gripe as the pack scores far better than its competitors in this regard. I would still carry a dry-bag though on longer trips but that is no issue as good ones weigh a mere 20g.
The Zpacks Arc Blast has comfortable straps
The Zpacks Arc Blast has comfortable straps
The Arc Blast's carbon frame
The Arc Blast's carbon frame
Arc Blast 55: view of the inside of the pack
View of the inside of the pack
​Features:
  • The huge net pocket at the front of the pack is excellent: I used it for my rain jacket and drying wet items of clothing. It held up very well but in forest terrain you would need to take care not to catch it on branches.
  • Roll-top closure: European trekkers will take a while to get used to the roll-top closure which is quite unlike traditional packs. However, I have to say that I am a complete convert. It saves weight and is very waterproof. You may miss having a pocket on top but this is easily remedied by carrying a small dry-bag inside to contain the items that you need to access quickly on the trail
  • Side pockets: there are two and they are well-designed, making it easy to reach for a water bottle or other items

Conclusion
The Arc Blast 55 is now my ‘go-to’ pack for long-distance treks. It is easily the lightest pack that I have ever used. In fact, it is almost unbelievably light. Yet I found it to be stable, durable and very comfortable. Unlike most other packs, it is almost completely waterproof. Despite the lightweight construction, it performed extremely well. At $325 it is not cheap but if you like to travel ultralight then it is a price worth paying.
​
But can I not find any faults at all? OK then, I have just one: please Mr Zpacks can we have a whistle on the sternum strap?! Honestly, that is the only fault I can find with this exceptional backpack.
Trekking the Corsica GR20
Our latest book!
Our now legendary guidebook to the Dolomites AV1
Our now legendary guidebook to the Dolomites AV1
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Coronavirus and the TMB/AV1

11/3/2020

0 Comments

 
There is a lot of speculation about Coronavirus and how it will affect the TMB/AV1 this summer. I do not know what the future brings. None of us do.

However, there are a few things that I do know:
  1. It is human nature to overreact. You only have to look at the financial markets to appreciate this: they overshoot on the way down and on the way up in reaction to bad and good news;
  2. There will be a lot of cancellations. The propensity to overact will cause a lot of people to cancel TMB/AV1 plans too early. This decision is likely to be based on fear rather than facts;
  3. If the TMB/AV1 refuges do open this summer, there are likely to be vacancies everywhere. This is unprecedented in the modern trekking era;
  4. If the refuges do open, those who are ready and prepared will reap the benefit of the vacancies. Those who have mapped out their itineraries and are poised to book when the time is right will probably get their pick of the accommodation; and
  5. If at all possible, the refuges on the TMB/AV1 will open. Mountain regions in the Alps are completely reliant on tourism. The loss of even part of a season hurts that economy and therefore it hurts the people. If they can open, they will. In fact they will be busting to do so. They will have made as many preparations as they can to be ready for the event if and when it happens. They need to open.
Coronavirus and the TMB/AV1
An ibex stays calm in the face of the Coronavirus. lol

Packing for the TMB and AV1
Pack size for the Tour du Mont Blanc
So here is my advice:
  1. Keep calm: you do not know what is going to happen and you are unable to influence it; 
  2. If you have already made bookings, make any decisions about cancellation at the very last minute: read the small print of your bookings. Make a note of all your key dates: when the next payment is due and when your cancellation dates are. Hell put it in a spreadsheet: it will take your mind off everything else! Keep those bookings live for as long as possible. That way, when you make your decision, you will be making it as close to the time as possible with the most up-to-date facts.
  3. If you have not made bookings then keep a cool head. Your time may well come. Assemble all the information you need to plan the TMB/AV1. Get your itinerary planned out and write it down. Then wait. Follow all current developments both on the Coronavirus and the TMB/AV1. As soon as the refuges open, you can pounce.
  4. If you plan to camp, and travel is possible, then you may be able to get onto the TMB even before the refuges are open. You would have the mountains almost to yourself. That would be an amazing experience.

​Depending upon how events play out and exactly when the refuges open, it is possible that the TMB and AV1 are the quietest they have been in decades. And that is something that I am going to see.

NEVER STOP DREAMING!!!

Take the hassle out of planning the TMB using the best guidebook available
Take the hassle out of planning the TMB using the best guidebook available
The only guidebook focusing solely on the AV1
The only guidebook focusing solely on the AV1
Plan your Chamonix days too using our brand new guidebook
Plan your Chamonix days too using our brand new guidebook
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Trekking the TMB in under 7 days

6/2/2020

1 Comment

 
Picture
Last summer I set out to hike the Tour du Mont Blanc again. But this time I was aiming to complete it in less than 7 days. Did I succeed? I tell all in my article: just click on the link below. This article was originally published in TGO magazine in October 2019
Turbo Trekking the TMB
File Size: 2374 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

1 Comment

TMB Booking Strategy: Which refuges on the Tour du Mont Blanc get booked up most quickly?

21/10/2019

0 Comments

 
TMB Accommodation ‘Pinch Points’
Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme on the TMB
Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme on the TMB
It is no exaggeration to state that the TMB is exquisite. And it is therefore no surprise to learn that it is also very busy.  In July and August almost every bed in every refuge, gîte and hotel will eventually be booked up and not just by TMB trekkers: weekenders and day walkers also want to experience this magnificent terrain.

However, some accommodation options on the TMB get booked up more quickly than others: the TMB has ‘pinch points’. What I mean by this is that there are certain places where the available accommodation is massively insufficient for the demand creating booking pressure. For example, there are certain places you will reach at the end of a day’s walking where the subsequent accommodation option is too far away for most people to tag onto an already strenuous day: this means that almost everyone must overnight there. Also, there are certain places which are more popular than others due to the quality of the accommodation or the sheer beauty of the surroundings.
​
By booking well in advance, you can ensure that you get your accommodation of choice. However, it is wise to give the booking of the ‘pinch points’ priority as these will likely fill up first. If you book everything else and then find that you cannot secure accommodation at a ‘pinch point’ then you may have to go back to square one and rebook everything again.
Common ‘pinch points’ are as follows (clockwise from the start at les Houches):

1. Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme (‘RCB’), les Chapieux and Refuge des Mottets (Stage 2c, 2d and 3a): not wanting to push too hard at the start of the trek, most break their first day at les Contamines. This means that the natural stopping point on day 2 is RCB  or les Chapieux (14-19km). If you push on from les Chapieux, it is another 6.5km to the next refuge which makes for a very long day. If you cannot get a booking at les Chapieux or RCB then you will probably be faced with one very long day followed by one very short one (or vice versa). Accordingly, these two places often get booked up very quickly. Refuge des Mottets takes the overflow and so it can be hard to secure too. Try to get this section booked as a priority as very long days can be problematic near the start of a trek when you are not yet ‘battle hardened’.
2. Rifugio Walter Bonatti (Stage 5b/v5b): this refuge is well placed between Courmayeur and la Fouly so, from a scheduling point of view, it is fair to say that it is probably the best place to stop for the night. Furthermore, on the trail you often hear people talking about their future stays at Bonatti with a kind of reverence. And the older guidebooks certainly seem to have contributed to its excellent reputation. And this reputation means that it is almost always booked up (except at the start and end of the season). Personally, I find it to be a bit of a ‘TMB factory’, processing TMB walkers in an austere manner albeit offering clean and largely comfortable facilities. And it has to be said that the location is spectacular. Nevertheless, there are other good options not too far away and I prefer to stay at Rifugios Bertone or Elena (which are admittedly both 2 hours away, one before Bonatti and one after). However, if you have your heart set on Bonatti then get it booked as soon as they start accepting bookings.
3. Col de la Forclaz (Stage 8/v8): there is only one place to stay and that is the Hotel du Col de la Forclaz. The TMB and the Walker’s Haute Route overlap here so it faces demands from both treks. And it is very popular with large groups: trekking companies often block book many beds. The small Refuge du Peuty is 45mins away but otherwise, the only accommodation is in Trient which is off the main TMB and adds distance to tired feet. Get it booked! 
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4. Auberge la Boërne (Stage 9c): there is nowhere else to stay unless you go off route slightly so this lovely refuge is very popular and fills up fast.
Auberge la Boërne fills up fast
Auberge la Boërne fills up fast
​5. Refuge la Flégère/Refuge du Lac Blanc (Stage 10/v10): if you cannot get one of these two refuges booked then, unless you are camping, you are faced with a massive double day all the way to les Houches or you have to take the cable car down to Chamonix for the evening. In my opinion a stay at one of these two places is a TMB highlight: they are the best locations for sunsets on the whole trek as the sun lights up the whole Mont Blanc Massif. They both fill up fast.
The most modern and up to date guidebook for the TMB
The most modern and up to date guidebook for the TMB
Real IGN maps included for each stage (Scale - 1:25,000)
Real IGN maps included for each stage (Scale - 1:25,000)
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Packing for the TMB or the Dolomites AV1

30/8/2019

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Stage v5b of the Tour du Mont Blanc
Stage v5b of the Tour du Mont Blanc


The best guidebook for the Tour du Mont Blanc
The best guidebook for the Tour du Mont Blanc
The Dolomites AV1 guidebook
The only guidebook focusing solely on the AV1: all Tabacco are included inside
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Mallorca's GR221: Stage 3

15/6/2019

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Stage 3 of the GR221 was a complete contrast to the epic panoramas of the previous two stages. The path took us slightly inland to see a Mallorca hidden from most: balmy, aromatic Holm Oak forest and a wonderful historic mountain village. On this stage you really start to understand why the GR221 is known as the Drystone Way......

The Mourne Mountains: 30 best hikes

£13.99

AVAILABLE NOW!


30 epic walks in Northern Ireland's highest mountains.

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The only Mournes guidebook with Real OSNI Maps inside (1:25k): no need to carry separate maps!


The only Mournes guidebook written by a local walker with decades of experience. 


Also includes:

▶ Numbered waypoints linking the Real Maps to our clear descriptions

▶ Graded routes to suit all abilities

▶ Everything the hiker needs to know: route descriptions, difficulty, weather, how to get there, and more

▶ 4 different ways to summit Slieve Donard, Northern Ireland's highest peak

▶ The 21 mile Mourne Wall challenge walk

▶ List of Irish place names

▶ Information on Wildlife, Plants & Geology

▶ Game of Thrones film locations

▶ Section on accommodation

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Northern Ireland: the Unmissable Hikes

£14.99

Available October 2020. Pre-order now and we will dispatch as soon as the books arrive.


The definitive guidebook for walking in Northern Ireland: 36 epic walks hand-picked by a County Down local.


The only guidebook for Northern Ireland with real OSNI maps inside: this makes navigation easy.


The Causeway Coast, the Glens of Antrim, the Mourne Mountains, the Sperrins and much more.


Also includes:




  • New walks in the Mournes which were not included in our previous Mourne Mountain book: including the Mournes Grand Traverse, our newly designed 55km challenge circuit which has been divided into two stages.
  • Game of Thrones film locations
  • List of Irish place names
  • Numbered waypoints linking maps to text
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Walker's Haute Route: Chamonix to Zermatt

£14.99
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Real maps for each stage: 1:25,000/1:50,000. No need to carry a separate map!

Also includes:
  • Unique Itinerary Planner: plan a bespoke itinerary to match your ability and vacation schedule. All difficult calculations of time, distance and altitude gain are done for you​
  • Everything the trekker needs to know: route descriptions, costs, budget, difficulty, weather, how to get there, and more
  • Full accommodation listings: spectacularly situated mountain huts, villages and hamlets
  • Full section on camping: a complete list of camping locations
  • ​Section on Zermatt day walks
  • 13 exciting variants to the main route
  • ​Information for both self-guided and guided trekkers
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Tour du Mont Blanc

£14.99
AVAILABLE NOW!

Complete guidebook for planning and trekking the Tour du Mont Blanc, the world's most famous trek

Real maps for each stage: 1:25,000. No need to carry a separate map!

Unique Itinerary Planner: plan a bespoke itinerary to match your ability and vacation schedule. All difficult calculations of time, distance and altitude gain are done for you

Everything the trekker needs to know: route descriptions, costs, budget, difficulty, weather, how to get there, and more

Full accommodation listings: spectacularly situated mountain huts, villages and hamlets

Full section on camping: a complete list of camping locations

10 exciting variants to the main route!

Information for both self-guided and guided trekkers
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Packing List for Corsica GR20

9/6/2019

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This is everything I am bringing on the GR20 (except for boots)
This is everything I am bringing on the GR20 (except for boots)
Multi-day trekkers carry all their worldly possessions on their backs so it is not surprising that one of the most common topics of conversation is pack weight. Ultra-light backpacking is very much in vogue these days, fuelled by thru-hikers from the US on long-distance trails like the Pacific Crest Trail. The gear manufacturers are riding this trend by making some incredible kit that makes it easier and easier for us to carry less weight. Less weight means less strain on the body and this enables us to travel further and faster.

These days, on hut to hut treks (where no camping equipment is required), I can achieve a pack weight of around 5kg (excluding water). For camping treks, I now carry 7kg (excluding food and water): and that is without having to get rid of some luxuries.

I am starting the Corsica GR20 this week and will be camping all the way. I thought some of you would like to see what I will carry so I made this video.......
The only two-way guide to the Corsica GR20
The only two-way guide to the GR20
Our GR20 book contains real maps!
Our GR20 book contains real maps!
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